I've resided in southern Mexico for quite some time, yet recently an inexplicable urge compelled me to venture north, drawing me closer to my friends and family. I made the decision to set my course for Mexico's largest coastal and border city.
As I packed my belongings into my beat up backpack and bid farewell to Oaxaca, a city I held dear and cherished, I realized that where I was going resembles nothing I know from here moving forward.
Tijuana, as I attempt to describe it, embodies both the best and worst aspects of the two countries it straddles. Rising to prominence during the prohibition era, it once served as a haven for prohibition stricken gringos and dark behavior. While traces of this history persist, the city has shifted its focus towards more diverse industries. Today, it thrives as a boomtown for many Mexicans, offering an opportunity to seek their fortunes anew.
I snagged a room for rent, just a stroll away from the border in the infamous Zona Norte region, thanks to a friend of a friend. Matteo, aka Mattingas, is this legit photographer and writer in the city who's well known locally. I thought, who better to room up with for the next few months? You can find all of his writing and photos here
This place lacks the ascetic charm that Mexico is known for, which isn't all that surprising given its lack of history. The buildings here closely resemble their stucco neighbors to the north but appear to have been put together in a more haphazard manner.
Depending on where you wander, the streets can be teeming with either prostitutes or a significant homeless population, a rare sight in many other parts of Mexico but quite common here. This homelessness stems from either a failed migration attempt or the unfulfilled promise of the Tijuana dollar.
People here seldom make eye contact or offer greetings on the street; they are much more reserved than what I've grown accustomed to elsewhere. It makes sense given that this city often ranks at the top of Mexicos most violent and murderous.
The city is real, raw, and undeniably the Frankenstein of the profit-driven gringos and the disorder and corruption sadly associated with Mexico.
So you might wonder, where does the good lie?
The silver lining lies in the fact that Tijuana stands apart from any other locale in Mexico. Its populace hails from every corner of this country, catapulting this city into the ranks of Mexico's largest. Unlike any other border town, Tijuana serves as a true embodiment of the two countries and their cultures, where the seamless blend is underscored by the not-so-rare sound of English being spoken. Many here possess dual passports, and individuals traverse the border in both directions on a daily basis, making the San Ysidro crossing the planet's busiest border entry point. Beyond the realm of Mexicans, this city is also a haven for gringos, immigrants from various corners of Latin America, and a substantial Haitian community, each group leaving an indelible mark on the cultural landscape.
Within Tijuana's confines lies one of the most exceptional culinary scenes across North America — a claim I'd gladly challenge anyone to refute. Countless gastronomic options adorn the streets, ranging from street food vendors to upscale restaurants, with the seafood and street tacos reigning as unparalleled delights.
The night scene, while still harboring certain seedier activities, has transformed notably, especially since the prohibition on military personnel visiting without a hard to obtain exception. Downtown now caters to the authentic Tijuana populace. Dive bars of exceptional character and a plethora of outstanding craft beer establishments dot the landscape, ushering in a vibrant nightlife scene that resonates with the city's pulsating energy.
This spot is a complete enigma, and I'm itching to start unraveling its secrets. I'm ready to dive in, soak up the chaos, and gradually piece together the puzzle that is this offbeat destination.
