Is Cuetzalan Mexicos Best Pueblo?
Nestled in the remote mountains of Mexico's Sierra Norte, this town, in many ways, embodies what I imagine the government intended when they first created the "Pueblo Magico" designation. Nature, gastronomy, and deep cultural roots with ancient ruins – what more could you want from a town?
How to get here
Cuetzalan del Progresso, or Cuetzalan for short, is a small town with a ton of charm. Getting here is fairly painless if you are already visiting Puebla (which you should), as you can grab a bus from the central station called CAPU from the company VIA for about $15. In less than 4 hours, you are transported from the city to a jungle/mountain paradise.
Lodging here and most things, in general, aren't painful on the wallet either. I managed to snag a fairly decent hotel in the center of the city for 400 pesos, or about $20 at El Encuentro but finding accomodation is fairly easy. There are also lots of eco lodges closer to the forests if you want some tranquility but I like to be in walking distance of a cantina.
What to do?
Cuetzalan is a perfectly fine town to do nothing in particular at all. I thoroughly enjoyed just mindlessly wandering around its cobblestoned streets, snapping pics, and exploring the various markets. However, if you want to hit some of the highlights in town, I would recommend coming on the weekend and doing the following:
Visit the Churches
Like most small charming towns in this part of the world, the church is often the central point of town, and here exist two utterly stunning churches: the Sanctuary of Guadalupe or the Iglesia de Jarritos, and the Parroquia de San Francisco de Asís, located in the main square or zócalo. I recommend visiting the Iglesia de Jarritos right at sunrise; you will have this place all to yourself, and it's both eerie and gorgeous as the town's old cemetery lies in the front. For the Parroquia de San Francisco de Asís, I would recommend coming at sunset to enjoy a weekend performance of the Danza de Voladores, which is infamous in this town.
See the Danza de Voladores
This is honestly a standout from my trip here, and although I've seen similar performances of this feat, this was nothing short of impressive. The Danza de Voladores is a ritual dating back almost 500 years and was originally performed to end a period of drought. Although the exact origins are disputed, it is heavily associated with the Totonac people who inhabit this region.
These guys are absolutely fearless and scale a pole that ascends over 100 feet into the sky without any form of safety. Then, they proceed to launch themselves off while playing drums and flutes while descending by a rope lightly tied around the waist. The whole performance lasts about 5 minutes. Pedro, the leader of the group, told me he had been doing this for 50 years. Definitely come see this at noon or around sunset, and make sure to tip these guys or buy them a drink at the local cantina when you see them.
Visit the Sunday Market
As mentioned before, the weekend is truly the best time to enjoy this place, and part of what makes it so special is the market on Sunday. Indigenous villages from around the valley descend into Cuetzalan to sell and barter their goods, offering a variety of really neat items. Some particular things worth mentioning and suggesting to buy include the local coffee, which is just amazing, and fresh vanilla and cinnamon. If you have space in your bag, I suggest grabbing one of the local mugs carved from bamboo. For street photographers, this market is a dream, providing an abundance of vibrant scenes and captivating moments. If you can't make it to this market on Sunday, they begin setting up and selling on Saturday.
Where to Eat/Drink
This town certainly doesn't fall short when it comes to places to grab a bite or catch a buzz. Its compact downtown is brimming with cafes, restaurants, and a handful of bars, promising to delight any visitor. However, a few of my favorite spots were:
La Luna: An excellent local spot for breakfast or lunch, offering a daily menu bursting with authentic flavors.
Yoloxochitl: I came for the view and stayed for the massive and delicious breakfast. Probably the cutest spot to enjoy breakfast with a view.
Street Food: You can't visit here and not try the local specialty, the Tlayoyo. It's like a little football-shaped, thick tortilla, usually paired with salsa and cheese. My favorite stand is in the center of the zocalo, offering a topping of cactus, onion, and dried beef. Don’t be scared to grab anything that looks good!
Restaurante y Terraza La Buena Vida: For a touch of elegance, consider dropping in here and savoring the view from above the zocalo.
Bar El Calate: For me, there can only be one bar in Cuetzalan, and it's right here. A super old-school, no-frills spot where you can comfortably sit down, grab a 60-peso caguama (giant beer), and relax. It's the local's spot just off the zocalo, and I love it. Bonus points for being the bar of choice for the guys from the Danza de Voladores.
Explore Outside Town
Apart from the town itself, the Sierra Norte in Mexico stands out as a stunning and biodiverse region. Just outside of town, you can explore jungles, forests, and ancient sites – all within a quick trip. The Sierra Norte provides a diverse and immersive experience, making it a must-visit destination for those eager to embrace the natural beauty and historical richness that Mexico has to offer.
Some Suggestions would be:
Visit the local waterfalls and river: La Brisas is just a quick collectivo ride from the center of the city, and this place feels like you are being transported into the Amazon. It is super lush, adorned with wild and local foliage, including some of the tallest-looking bamboo I've ever seen. I took a hike down to the river, and when I visited the waterfall, a local family had a pet coati. If you don't mind a bit of chilly water, the swimming here is refreshing and enjoyable.
See the ruins of Yohualichan: The archaeological site of Yohualichan is an incredible city built by the Totonacs and is just a short, 30-minute bus ride from town. You can easily catch a bus, known as a collectivo, for a mere 12 pesos.
Go Cave Spelunking : I'm only mentioning this because it's quite popular here, but personally, I'm claustrophobic and not a big fan of caves. According to my local buddies, though, these are some of the most extensive cave networks in Mexico. If you're an enthusiast, you can grab a local guide and tour from the center.
Some Considerations
I feel it's important to mention that this region is quite wet, so bringing an umbrella is a good idea. Additionally, consider the fact that you're visiting an extremely rural and old-fashioned village. This means there might be limited to zero phone and internet service and a scarcity of English speakers or foreign tourists. It's essential to note that this isn't a Disneyland version of Mexico, akin to places like San Miguel de Allende. Instead, it's a genuine and lived-in town. So, come with an open mind and heart to fully enjoy the authentic experience.
So is it the Best?
Well, for me, it absolutely is. I cherish the serene and quiet embrace of nature, the nostalgic living that feels like a step back in time, and the invaluable insights into indigenous life in Mexico that Cuetzalan generously offers. It's a destination for those with a genuine love for, and curiosity about, the intricate layers of this country. Returning for my second trip has only solidified my appreciation, and without a doubt, I'll be back in Cuetzalan at the earliest opportunity.
